Morning (8:30am–1:00pm)
The Alhambra
Arrive at 8:30am with tickets already purchased (they sell out weeks ahead). Walk Alcazaba → Nasrid Palaces (your entry time is fixed) → Generalife. Minimum 3 hours. Don't rush — this place deserves silence.
Carmen de los Mártires
On your way out of the Alhambra (Justice Gate), cross to Carmen de los Mártires. Romantic gardens, hedge labyrinth, peacocks. Free and almost always empty.
Midday (1:00pm–3:30pm)
Tapas in Realejo
Head down to Realejo, the Jewish quarter. Campo del Príncipe is the main square. La Tana (natural wines, gourmet tapa), Bar Poë (fusion), or for pure tradition: Casa Julio (snails and migas). Order 3-4 beers and you've eaten.
Realejo murals
Realejo is an open-air art gallery. El Niño de las Pinturas' murals are all over — the most famous on Cuesta del Caidero. Street art of international quality.
Afternoon (3:30pm–6:00pm)
Monumental center
Royal Chapel (essential), Madraza (Granada's first university, free entry), Corral del Carbón (14th century Arabic inn). Stroll through Alcaicería (the old silk bazaar, now souvenir shops — more picturesque than useful).
Calderería Nueva
The tea house street. Although touristy, the tea houses are genuine — the tea with pine nuts and Moroccan pastries are worth it. Abyana or As-Sirat are good choices.
Sunset & evening (6:00pm–10:00pm)
Sunset from San Nicolás
Walk up to San Nicolás viewpoint for sunset. The illuminated Alhambra, pink Sierra Nevada, swallows flying. One of Europe's best sunsets — not hyperbole.
Tapas dinner in the Albaicín
Stay in the Albaicín for dinner. El Huerto de Juan Ranas has views (expensive but unforgettable), or go down to Carmen de las Tomasas. For local tapas: Rincón de Aurora in San Miguel Bajo.